SEPTEMBER 10.
I sent for Gwynn[1236], and he shewed us the town. The walls are broken, and narrower than those of Chester. The town is large, and has many gentlemen's houses, but the streets are narrow. I saw Taylor's library. We walked in the Quarry; a very pleasant walk by the river.[1237] Our inn was not bad.
SEPTEMBER 11.
Sunday. We were at St. Chads, a very large and luminous Church. We were on the Castle Hill.
SEPTEMBER 12.
We called on Dr. Adams,[1238] and travelled towards Worcester, through Wenlock; a very mean place, though a borough. At noon, we came to Bridgenorth, and walked about the town, of which one part stands on a high rock; and part very low, by the river. There is an old tower, which, being crooked, leans so much, that it is frightful to pass by it.
In the afternoon we came through Kinver, a town in Staffordshire; neat and closely built. I believe it has only one street.
The road was so steep and miry, that we were forced to stop at Hartlebury, where we had a very neat inn, though it made a very poor appearance.
SEPTEMBER 13.
We came to Lord Sandys's, at Ombersley, where we were treated with great civility.[1239]
The house is large. The hall is a very noble room.
SEPTEMBER 15.
We went to Worcester, a very splendid city. The Cathedral is very noble, with many remarkable monuments. The library is in the Chapter House. On the table lay the Nuremberg Chronicle, I think, of the first edition. We went to the china warehouse. The Cathedral has a cloister. The long aisle is, in my opinion, neither so wide nor so high as that of Lichfield.
SEPTEMBER 16.
We went to Hagley, where we were disappointed of the respect and kindness that we expected[1240].
SEPTEMBER 17.
We saw the house and park, which equalled my expectation. The house is one square mass. The offices are below. The rooms of elegance on the first floor, with two stories of bedchambers, very well disposed above it. The bedchambers have low windows, which abates the dignity of the house. The park has one artificial ruin[1241], and wants water; there is, however, one temporary cascade. From the farthest hill there is a very wide prospect.
I went to church. The church is, externally, very mean, and is therefore diligently hidden by a plantation. There are in it several modern monuments of the Lytteltons.
There dined with us, Lord Dudley, and Sir Edward Lyttelton, of Staffordshire, and his Lady. They were all persons of agreeable conversation.
I found time to reflect on my birthday, and offered a prayer, which I hope was heard.
SEPTEMBER 19.
We made haste away from a place, where all were offended[1242]. In the way we visited the Leasowes[1243]. It was rain, yet we visited all the waterfalls. There are, in one place, fourteen falls in a short line. It is the next place to Ham Gardens[1244]. Poor Shenstone never tasted his pension. It is not very well proved that any pension was obtained for him. I am afraid that he died of misery[1245].
We came to Birmingham, and I sent for Wheeler, whom I found well.
SEPTEMBER 20.
We breakfasted with Wheeler,[1246] and visited the manufacture of Papier Mache. The paper which they use is smooth whited brown; the varnish is polished with rotten stone. Wheeler gave me a tea-board. We then went to Boulton's,[1247] who, with great civility, led us through his shops. I could not distinctly see his enginery.
Twelve dozen of buttons for three shillings.[1248] Spoons struck at once.
SEPTEMBER 21.
Wheeler came to us again.
We came easily to Woodstock.
SEPTEMBER 22.
We saw Blenheim and Woodstock Park.[1249] The Park contains two thousand five hundred acres; about four square miles. It has red deer. Mr. Bryant[1250] shewed me the Library with great civility. Durandi Rationale, 1459[1251]. Lascaris' Grammar of the first edition, well printed, but much less than later editions[1252]. The first Batrachomyomachia[1253].
The Duke sent Mr. Thrale partridges and fruit.
At night we came to Oxford.
SEPTEMBER 23.
We visited Mr. Coulson[1254]. The Ladies wandered about the University.
SEPTEMBER 24.
We dine with Mr. Coulson. Vansittart[1255] told me his distemper.
Afterwards we were at Burke's, where we heard of the dissolution of the Parliament. We went home[1256].
FOOTNOTES:
[1] See ante, ii. 434, note 1, and iii. 209.
[2] His Account of Corsica, published in 1768.
[3] Horace Walpole wrote on Nov.6, 1769 (Letters, v. 200):--'I found Paoli last week at Court. The King and Queen both took great notice of him. He has just made a tour to Bath, Oxford, &c., and was everywhere received with much distinction.' See ante, ii. 71.
[4] Boswell, when in London, was 'his constant guest.' Ante, iii 35.
[5] Boswell's son James says that 'in 1785 Mr. Malone was shewn at Mr. Baldwin's printing-house a sheet of the Tour to the Hebrides which contained Johnson's character. He was so much struck with the spirit and fidelity of the portrait that he requested to be introduced to its writer.